

hell island * XV
Drop by Jesse Miller Sea water is full of life and so are we. Whether it’s a Todos drop, the Waimea boil or Maverick’s ledge, surfing is...


the kook * XVI
Illustration Gomez Bueno Our surf goon has been enshrined as “Wilbur Kookmeyer.” He is surf plebian, val, troll, over-aged amper and the...


surf star * XVII
Surfers are reflections of our collective soul and every surfer an enlightened surf star, oftentimes unbeknownst to themselves. The...


surfer’s moon * XVIII
Blue moon by Remi Bertoche Ocean rhythms are intrinsic to our surfing life. As observers of the ocean pulse, we notice subtle shifts in...


native sun * XIX
big left by Ron Croci The native sun is evidence that the pleasure derived from riding a wave can be brought forth into everyday life. ...


cloudbreak * XX
dark love by Remi Bertoche Big wave surfing is our karmic “call of the wild,” as big water reefs are aeons old and read by waves like...


surfari * XXI
The water family is an international tribe. We are a surf frontiersmen, on pilgrimage to paradise, to the holy lands of our surf meccas....


aces * morning glass, peaky, sandbar, dawn patrol
Dreamy Morning by Stephen Bibb morning glass * ace of winds Usually, within two to three hours after sunrise are the ideal conditions,...


two * sheet glass, major lull, bay cliffs, moonbow
sheet glass * two of winds When the wind whispers we make love between the sheets. Afterwards there is a dead calm and no wind, which...


three * evening glass, green room, rivermouth, new moon
Backlit right by Zen Del Rio evening glass off * three of winds Things can get special just before sunset. There is a different feel and...