surfer’s moon * XVIII
Blue moon by Remi Bertoche Ocean rhythms are intrinsic to our surfing life. As observers of the ocean pulse, we notice subtle shifts in...
native sun * XIX
big left by Ron Croci The native sun is evidence that the pleasure derived from riding a wave can be brought forth into everyday life. ...
cloudbreak * XX
dark love by Remi Bertoche Big wave surfing is our karmic “call of the wild,” as big water reefs are aeons old and read by waves like...
surfari * XXI
The water family is an international tribe. We are a surf frontiersmen, on pilgrimage to paradise, to the holy lands of our surf meccas....
aces * morning glass, peaky, sandbar, dawn patrol
Dreamy Morning by Stephen Bibb morning glass * ace of winds Usually, within two to three hours after sunrise are the ideal conditions,...
two * sheet glass, major lull, bay cliffs, moonbow
sheet glass * two of winds When the wind whispers we make love between the sheets. Afterwards there is a dead calm and no wind, which...
three * evening glass, green room, rivermouth, new moon
Backlit right by Zen Del Rio evening glass off * three of winds Things can get special just before sunset. There is a different feel and...
four * tradewinds, honing, outer reef, full moon
tradewinds * four of winds Tropical smells waft precociously upon prevailing winds, augmenting the already audacious harmony between...
five * stormy, acid drop, finger reef, marine layer
Storm Surge by Scott Christensen stormy * five of winds Madcap whitecaps make for “victory at sea,” and spell an end to the calm and...
six * kona winds, feather, point break, sunset
kona winds * six of winds You want it to be perfect so bad, but it’s “blowin’ Kona.” The wind is “cutting” and unfamiliar, and disrupts...
