

Log Cabins day * Outer Reef
photo Austin Moore Just down the beach from Pipeline/Off the Wall, and a bit past Rockpiles, you could once upon a time find the lone 60s...


national hairball awareness day * acid drop
Ghost Trees * Monterey Bay, California When I think of acid drops, I think back to Bruce Raymond taking off on a straight up and down...


Feast of Divine Mercy * a most humble and docile reception * Quasimodo Sunday
This last Sunday marks the Sunday after Easter and a return to the rank ‘n file church service for those church going folks. In so many...


Do as you know (of her) * Good medicine is everywhere * gaiatlantis
Personally am quite enthralled/spellbound when on the receiving end of little downloads/transmissions, and no matter how seemingly...


World Meteorological Day * groundswell
Living in Los Angeles my first exposure to surf forecasting was deciphering 1970s LA Times weather charts, and their diamond backed,...


the Grom * Ꝋ
The grom asks you to plunge deeply into life. Breathe life into the unforgettable. Show your appreciation. Be animated.


Shortboarder * I
The shortboarder reveals to us that we have been given the gift to make the extraordinary from the ordinary. Find the tool that makes life


Mother Ocean * II
A true surfer is in harmony with our Mother Ocean. She keeps us at emotional equilibrium. She keeps us detached from the “crashing...


Waterwoman * III
Girl in the curl by Roger Chandler To be a waterwoman is a great responsibility. She gives birth to the feminine within our male...


Waterman * IV
illustration Roy Gonzalez Surfing has been called, “a royal sport for the natural kings of the earth.” The waterman is a complete water...














