

National Get Gnarly Day
When the shaman is blowing tobacco up not one but both nostrils, that’s gnarly. And not to mention the follow up ointment dropped on my...


Log Cabins day * Outer Reef
photo Austin Moore Just down the beach from Pipeline/Off the Wall, and a bit past Rockpiles, you could once upon a time find the lone 60s...


national hairball awareness day * acid drop
Ghost Trees * Monterey Bay, California When I think of acid drops, I think back to Bruce Raymond taking off on a straight up and down...


Feast of Divine Mercy * a most humble and docile reception * Quasimodo Sunday
This last Sunday marks the Sunday after Easter and a return to the rank ‘n file church service for those church going folks. In so many...


Do as you know (of her) * Good medicine is everywhere * gaiatlantis
Personally am quite enthralled/spellbound when on the receiving end of little downloads/transmissions, and no matter how seemingly...


World Meteorological Day * groundswell
Living in Los Angeles my first exposure to surf forecasting was deciphering 1970s LA Times weather charts, and their diamond backed,...


the Grom * Ꝋ
The grom asks you to plunge deeply into life. Breathe life into the unforgettable. Show your appreciation. Be animated.


Shortboarder * I
The shortboarder reveals to us that we have been given the gift to make the extraordinary from the ordinary. Find the tool that makes life


Mother Ocean * II
A true surfer is in harmony with our Mother Ocean. She keeps us at emotional equilibrium. She keeps us detached from the “crashing...


Waterwoman * III
Girl in the curl by Roger Chandler To be a waterwoman is a great responsibility. She gives birth to the feminine within our male...













