tuberider * X


illustration Zen Del Rio

The surf torero sits “slow motion, on razor’s edge, in perfect control.” The steep, pitching tube is hypnotic trance medium within, despite the pounding, exploding, breaking wave without. Time is expanded as the “lip flutters over like a symphony of angels, leaving us in our own private cathedral for a moment of silence.” Blissfully all alone, in the warm water, we enter unto surfing shunyata with knowing sangfroid. “If your mind stays open, the tube stays open.” Positioned deep within the vortex we feel a drop in air pressure and blast of compressed air. It’s standing room only as we defy the spitting vacuum. As gifted rider we exit the temple of zoom untouched and undaunted. The tube is a reward in and of itself. Only a tuberider knows the purest of feelings.

The high speed, majestic ride over shallow waters offers an enviable surfing dividend for those who can maneuver with conviction. Father Sun, our Mother Ocean and the Holy “Spit” offer their divine support by magic hand at the hub, as it is our natural reflex to respond to supranatural flux and pull into the orb. Ascending and descending, the rider cavorts to get “coverage” under the big top of the Banzai Pipeline pleasure dome. He stalls and gets sheeted in sampling the vintage dry barrel. We cannot get more core, as the breathtaking void is true to “holy” spirit. The visually demonstrative spectacular is an emotional release and climax from an intense intimacy, and feels great. Locked in on life, love is lusty as we emerge from the sacred chamber. This timeless transmutation has a silent charm, but is rife with revival. Our near kundalini experience leaves us euphoric and shrouded in spray, while our exhilaration elicits a revitalizing, if not primeval, scream.

We soon become vulnerable. Lost in liquid space, we have embraced the glory of our pipedreams. No longer a mirage, we now have inside information. “Use it or lose it. Never know ‘til ya go. Never up, never in.” We’re straight ahead, full blast and have to go hard. We are more sexual than sensual. We don’t play. We are hooked on an inner high, and are less capable on the external wave. “Who am I? Where am I coming from? Where am I going?” Fear tells your karma. “You get what you want or need out of life, just not always how and when you may have in mind.” Yet your focus is speculation. You shoot up and get spit out. You muddle through and are left to meander, carelessly poised and precariously grandiloquent, despite the transience of fortune.

Unfortunately her Majesty owns a commanding presence and is not much for guidelines. The fateful turn of the unexpected leaves us to negotiate her mixed up reef politics, while our immovable stance leads us into the dragon hole with only one way out. The curtain closes and chance comes to a sudden end. We have been passed by, no longer part of the process. Risk is intrinsic. “No risk, no reward. High risk, high return. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.” You knew it was too good to be true, that something was gonna go awry. Your sense of wariness embroiled an impure mind. You were stuck, a speed freak, a spinner. You were a “player,” not a spectator. The showy get taken down. You lost your composure.

illustration Remi Bertoche

Acquire a new view on things. When we real eyes that we’re all spinning on the wheel of life, then we’ll all be singin’ in the rain. “Clarity within affords movement without.” You have to go within before you find your way without. Dwell within. Be an indweller. Go deep within. A new vantage point from the inside looking out, yields a new perspective. Pure mind equals pure stoke. Wait for the wave to come to life. You can use the influence unfolding before you for accomplishment. Find the silver lining. Find your opening. Stay open to doors of opportunity. Be opportunistic. Be open to experience.

Find your rhythm. Live in tune with cycles and rhythms. Turmoil will pass. Fortune will smile upon you. A good venture is timeless. Don’t try and control, go with the Flow and grow. Don’t buckle under to the doomsdayers. Let it ride. You are an assessor of conditions and equipment. Use your local knowledge. Use your supreme wave judgment and eloquent position. Pick your point of entry, choose your line, anticipate subtle adjustments, stay centered, and trim. Focus on the here and now. Your sacred dream will come true. Fantasy will turn into reality. Calm your mind to reach completion.

Live again. Celebrate your courage to experience the kaleidoscope of the inner stillness. Offer your knowledge from within to others. Acknowledge our oneness. Give of yourself. Fall into perfect harmony. Is your life in sync? Grace is synchronicity. What is your self assessment? Equanimity is transcendence. Within the mind’s eye of the wave is an all-seeing vision from within. In the tube, time is suspended. Within the inner circle, she will speak to you. Slow down and accept the reality of the situation you are in.

Surf the line by Remi Bertoche

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