ten * offshore, bowly, coral reef, perfection

offshore * ten of winds

The “mindless perfection” of “right brain lefthanders,” is truly our “dream session” come true. As her “wave face opens up to our imagination,” we come upon our mother ocean exalting in her “feelgood splendor.” Limits are expanded and expectations exceeded, as it’s “ridiculously easy to get barreled.” With favorable headwind, “it’s in the air for everyone,” as “in and out tube rides,” are par excellence. It’s a magic day and everybody’s happy. Whether kona or trades, it’s “perfection around every corner,” and just doesn’t get any better than this. “It’s our just reward,” as high pressures often produce “beautiful offshore conditions,” which make waves “steeper and deeper,” and hollower. Dramatic, award winning wipeouts, make good fodder for storytelling, as many are “fooled by wave, but never by our Ma Ocean.” We arise again from our “powerful encounter,” as surfing Phoenix, with our whitewater “initiation” only serving as “catalyst for more surfing,” and to bolster our confidence. With “every surfer dreaming of offshores,” our love for surfing is inspiring, fulfilling and satisfying, and yet leaves us restless for more. We exalt in “triumph after a long paddle” back out, and as “new surfer of fortune,” back “outside,” we lay claim to a “new lease on life.” Still in wonder and awe, we remain optimistic.

“Perfection lulls you to sleep.” You act like it’s too much of a good thing. On top of that you won’t surf unless it’s perfect, and yet you are unprepared for perfection. With “offshores hard in your face,” you can’t drop in and the spray feels like a “shower of needles.” Caught with board too short, you can’t get into the waves. You’re out of shape and can’t paddle with spray in your face. Blown back up the face, you pearl and end up over the falls. It’s like you’re hallucinating and think you’re surfing Pipe. With “delusions of grandeur,” you slip in behind the section and get piped, only to find there is no exit. You are picked off without warning, despite counting on face to hold up and barrel to hold out. Enthusiasm and drive are replaced by anxiety and fear. It looks good, but she is ephemeral, and is much too heavy. With stakes so high, there is unexpected loss. Lack of commitment sparks an upheaval, especially after you’ve ditched school or are playing hooky from work. “You shoulda been here yesterday,” as now it’s nothing but flat and mushy, despite the slight offshores. Less than gracious when offshores do finally depart, our expectations were set too high and are short to bring a sense of failure upon us.

painting by Flavio Caporali

Follow your dream. Don’t wait too long. Commit to that “vision quest,” surf trip. You will find the “offshore” conditions you are looking for. Carpe diem. Don’t take anything as a given. Pay attention and keep an eye out for that “good omen.” Take advantage of conditions. Let it all hang out, and expand on things. Go for it and try out your “mind boggling maneuvers,” the ones that others think there is no way to pull them off. Is your heart into it? Don’t give up, as long as you are “passionate” about it. Desire beauty. Now is not the time to “pass up” on things. Get your work out of the way to fully enjoy the day. Stay in sync with natural law and her ocean rhythms. Get off to a good start, and get on it before everyone’s out, or you’ll be left with leftovers. Hang loose and “flourish,” and make sure to “cash in.”

Rat Bowls by Victoria Trujillo

bowly * ten of waves

You’ve got to pay attention, but if you’re on your game, boy is it fun. If you’ve been waiting for waves as canvas to show your full repertoire, it’s a dream setup and “bowl game” on. “Organically shaped,” bowled and gaping pits, suck out near dry, “seething and hissing,” across the “shoaly” reef. “Anticipation is in the air,” as the “bowl party” is about to begin. It’s not for the squeamish. Building swell brings on a “building urge,” as the “buck wild,” spontaneous combustion brings out our “all consuming, surfing lust.” Caught up in our passion for surf, our love affair with the tube commences. Folding “pleasure domes” are “natural stimulation,” as we go “pavlovian” upon entry, and exit on supernatural high. The inside bowl provides a “full and rich surf experience,” with “incredible maneuvers” making for “successful reentry,” and “rapid fire thrills.” It’s “firing,” and we feel vital, alive and young again. “In the heat of the action,” we are “compelled to bowl,” as the barrel is inevitable. Tubes are followed up with aerials, as the plentitude of possibilities make for rather prolific, “expression session.” Creative thrillseekers become confident to take on the plentitude of bowls, given their well laid foundation in “technical surfing” and “calculated moves.” Intoxicated from “bowling,” tube lovers are only too happy with the “unexpected gift wraps.” Our new “tuberider” stick is pure joy and good value for our entertainment dollar. Our efforts have paid off, as our “crowning moment” is one of “contentment” and “lasting joy.” Undersea canyons have wrought a pseudo “self actualization” from swell and rider, which combined with the over allotment of negative ions, produces a most peaceful post session feeling.

illustration David Artavia

Up against the “centralized” power of the peak, our self appointed “boss of the bowl” rides “in vain,” and is soon trapped as wave “clam shells” over him, leaving him “shocked” and “saddened” upon realization of his sudden “loss in spirit.” You pay the price for error. Whether “burned out,” or “surfed out,” our “surf drunk” is guilty of “contained emotions.” With bowly surf more likely with groundswell than with windswells, we are angry at the fact that we couldn’t have what we desperately wanted. Hollow waves have all the sudden become unfaithful, as our “return to balance” has become anything but guaranteed.

Tropical Bowl by Michael Lorenzini

Pick a more forgiving spot. The “divining bowl” is an alchemical process. Know “transcendence.” Be receptive of her “negative ions.” Entreat of her. Cross over the line, or get past her barriers to entry, until you’ve found out what you’re seeking. It’s not just a risk, it’s an opportunity. Look at the results of “action versus inaction.” He who hesitates is lost. Don’t pull back. You’ll only have your own case of “self recrimination” to face. Adjust and change directions. “Take chances and you will be rewarded.” Do waves turn you on? The waves are “now here.” Show your excitement. Prepare for takeoff, and launch. Now is the time. “The bowl is a symbol of fertility.” Feel your heart beat, and get to the heart of things. Express your feelings. Get caught up in the joyride. You were born with a “sensual freedom.” Flow with things. Move to the ocean’s rhythm, and fall in sync. Don’t think. Just “plug in” and enjoy. Let it all hang loose. Show off your colors, and “geev’um bruddah.” Surf with abandon. Accelerate and “get high.” Have the courage to “explode” and “go off.” Bust outrageous maneuvers. Let it out and roar! Devour waves and fire through bowls. “Cleave crisply connecting sections.” Move “with the quickness,” but don’t overamp. “Examine deep pits and your inner motive.” Indulge in that “inner satisfaction.” Take “it” home with you and “build on it.” Carve out your worldly “niche.” Surf in gratitude. Give a wave, and of yourself. Surf life. Be generous and share of yourself. Surfing is life. You have your own original style. Act the part. We are all blessed. Treat yourself, and others, well. Be well. Be love.

Illustration Hilton Alves

coral reef * ten of rocks

“Knife wielding reefs” and an “undersea garden of jagged coral heads and boulders,” set the stage for a give and take relationship between rider and reef. The reef has trouble spots aplenty with no shortage of negative repercussions. The multitude of obstacles and boils spread out along the uneven reef, make for a most formidable ride, even for the most esteemed of our “roughriders.” As high risk surfing can yield big reward, spinning barrels are but “wheels of fortune,” and “fine tuned test” for our “avid wave consumer.” With “wave bank account” in good standing, you’re counting on your experience to again yield surf dividends. With a knack for connecting sections and making waves, you’re intent on pulling this off. You know that today is the day, and that there is no turning back. You’ve “arrived,” and know there is not time nor place for complacency nor cutbacks. Eager to go “one on one,” you’re feelin’ lucky, and even a bit frisky. With abundant waves affording “Cadillac rides” with wide “open doors,” you are well provided for by your homebreak. You are patient, yet opportunistic, and know that “open minds” make for “open tubes,” and feel well prepared for this “window of opportunity.” Looking for “quality over quantity,” your expectations are high, yet understandable, and part of any reasonable equation.

Lured by her beauty, we were dumped unceremoniously. Not a man for all seasons afterall, expectations were too high, as the “once fabled” spot had been “misrepresented.” Caught up in our fame and glory, we sought power via the prestige and social standing we had hoped to gain. Of excessive ambition, we grabbed for all we could get. Never satisfied, we needed more. Intolerant of others, nerves became frayed in the lineup. Disrespectful to our elders, we didn’t think it could all just be taken away. Beach break kooks and just “surf punk” squatters in the tube, we were “unprepared entrant” and “disruption,” and left others in jeopardy. With others now carrying the burden of our safety, emotions were tense, and we were soon the “unforgiven.” With enthusiasm lessened, our fate seemed inevitable. It was either “beef it,“ or “Banzai!” Her beauty was lethal, as “perfection had peril lurking right below the surface.” Locals can walk on the reef barefoot, but for others it’s nothing but a “bloody mess.” Good fishing when flat, the “coral tables” had turned. We went from paradise to disaster, as we could no longer just turn it on, and had lost our flow. With reef all too fickle, we seemed always in waiting, as the loss of surf without new swell to follow, took its emotional toll. Restless and ornery, with delays common, we felt confined. The loss of our beloved, not to mention any hoped for legacy or “honor,” was frustrating to say the least. With inherent danger passed, we were left with our “potato chip,” worthless anywhere else, “stiletto” boards, and were now constrained by our equipment. Outcome was no longer related to performance. Ironically enough, such a positive occurrence was now, actually a hindrance.

Pick your spots, and make sure your equipment is up to speed. Think safety, and stay within yourself. If something’s not working, it’s but necessary action or “an equal and opposite reaction.” Take precautions and pay attention. Maintain your tenacity. A break in the reef, allows us access to her. An opportunity for intimacy is an invitation to be accepting of her “imperfections.” Watch for patterns in the reef, and “account” for changing tides, wind and swell directions, and for the overall timing of things. Study the reef as an “annuity.” Know the “bottom line” conditions. You will reap the rewards. Treat yourself to a “bonus.” Take the day off. Luxuriate and restore the flora and fauna of your internal body. Personal renewal begets a “surf renewal.” Stick to a plan and let life unfold. You’ve had designs on this day, and the seasonal conditions to come, for some time now. Accept your fate and ready for winter. Get a big wave gun. “Luck is the residue of design,” and your “opportunity knocks.” You have a place in this lineup. Answer the call. You know they’re coming. Be composed and get centered. Be creative, and gamble with caution. Be disciplined in your selection of waves and accumulate experience. It’s “truth or consequences.” The more you “chance’m,” the more you’ll make. “Never up, never in.” Build upon each wave. “You won’t know ‘til ya go.” Make your move. See yourself as a “player,” and as a “real surfer,” and “hit it.” Paddle out, take off, drop in, and set your line. “The reef is gonna get ya, but you’ll get yours too.” You deserve the chance to make it. “You get what you want,” but “nobody rides for free.” Stay alert. You will find the tube by wave’s end. Do not be held back by idle threats or inherent risks. “Misunderstandings are most often from a lack of communication.” Give a wave and stay in the flow. Adjust to changing conditions and “push am forward.” Sustain your concentration. “Coral keeps islands at sea level.” Stay on an even keel and see out from within your “mind’s eye.” Avoid “negativity.” Think well, surf well. Surf in harmony. You are an ocean of devotion, and she is our “common denominator.” Surf “in beauty and joy.” Celebrate waves and your “surf jubilee,” as sacred. Share them with friends.

illustration James Finch

perfection * ten of rays

You couldn’t be more stoked. All your friends are out and everybody’s smiling. Everything’s working. “It’s total bliss” and too much fun. Smooth and glassy, and with soft trades, it’s “absolute perfection.” It’s what we live for, and we are lovin’ it. It’s like a make believe surf concerto and heaven on earth. So alive and so in tune, we find inspiration in a near “religious craving for wholeness.” Of a timeless ecstasy and pristine purity, chaos has been reduced to an “unfettered,” and “not to be believed,” most joyous “singularity.” We have struck the perfect chord, and are in harmony and perfect balance. We are at “at-one-ment.” The “ultimate soulful experience” all comes together in our “deepest heartfelt connection,” as “pure ethereal” experience begets an “emotional purity,” where “words become feelings,” and we are all literally “glowing.” In sharing of this “single idea” and moment, we are “live spectacle,” as our radiance is merely reflection of our “brilliance” in the baking sun. Our “beach revelation” comes to us in a trance, and under the spell of her “hypnotic beauty.” We are “beyond indulgence,” and feeling “filthy good,” almost “so good, that it’s bad.” Too many “screaming tube rides” are reinforcement that we have long been “destined for good surfing fortune,” and “divine intervention.” We are the “star for a day,” with our wealth made apparent by the “gifts of nature.” Our “reward at the end of the rainbow” is “power surfing.” We explode off the bottom and execute our top turn pivot, tearing the lip off its face, and drive down the line, confident in anticipation. We are in sync and flowing, as our intent becomes more evident. It is time for action. As our purpose and direction become more evident, we gain clarity with the “unveiling of her secret chambers.” Her “numinosity” makes for rare dreamscape and unfolds before us as surfing’s “Holy Grail.” Secure in her “feminine powers,” she is sharing of her “sacred spaces,” as “only a surfer knows the feeling.” Upon reaching our “surf zenith,” we are directly exposed to her “highest consciousness.” With faith restored and hopes recharged, we leave behind our fears and doubts, and become fully engaged with our newfound sense of good karma. Nothing bothers us. We are again “grateful to be a surfer,” and enjoy a renewed faith in life, and our mother ocean.

Don’t take it all for granted. If you don’t reciprocate, and don’t see things as sacred, or are impatient and give up before you reach that peak experience, unwilling to extend yourself, things will ebb, and doors will close. Without incentive, you’ll be without cash flow and with cupboards bare before too very long. You may find you can’t act on things as “surprise complications” delay, or simply derail, even the best of your intentions. You’ve been chasing perfection so long, you’ve grown into a “pleasantly self satisfied hedonism.” You’ve identified the “things” worth getting, and gotten them. With no conflict, there is no crisis nor need for resolution. With no goal to be attained, nor struggle between teams, or even within oneself, there is “no obstacle to be surmounted against great odds.” One can become unappreciative, as “impassive” is no way to go through life. If “gained inappropriately,” things could eventually end in ruins. You may have felt undeserving, but you didn’t let that get in your way. You were the “worm in the apple.” A “tainted experience” made for “tainted waters,” and left you wishing you had never dreamed of your “illusion.” You exaggerated your claims, even as the “swell ephemeral,” vanished before your very eyes. You triggered a mass exodus to your spot, even though you knew that the “curse” of the “perfect” wave would lead to an “invasion of the wavesnatchers.” It is little consolation that the place has finally emptied out, as “even perfection gets monotonous after a coupla weeks.”

Don’t shut out the rest of your life with your chronic search for perfection. The journey is the dividend. Go into the Unknown, with good maps and good information, and be at home anywhere. Your time spent will yield a “real time,” and most relevant, “ROI.” Know of the possibilities that life has to offer. Ye of “full quiver” and strong faith, know that “seeing” is believing. Visit with “her Majesty,” and study of her well, as the “beauty” of the wave, or the day, is contingent upon you “seeing” it. Put an end to doubt and uncertainty. Lavish in her. Move intuitively with fewer thoughts. Cherish her waves. Lighten your material load, and your “local mentality.” Be willing to leave “it” all behind. You will be rewarded. Empty “things” out and get rid of what you don’t need. Address what is “immaterial” in your life. Nurture your sense of wonder and awe. Experience beauty. Enjoy a “multidimensional” life experience. Be versatile and integrate your life experience with your “ocean consciousness.” Be the wave, be the ocean, be the moment itself. “Take pleasure in a simple afternoon on a good wave.” Feel the wave, and fall in with the pulse of the ocean. Surfing and love are one in the same. Expand upon the experience of absolute perfection. Live to surf, and surf to live. Share of your love for our mother ocean. Tap into the unexpected resources of your surfing family and our surfer collective. Bring your “unshared fantasy” and our “lovely fiction,” to life. You know you can’t put a price on your good time, nor can anyone ever take away your waves in the bank. Enjoy refirement. Know that flat spells and hard times come to an end. There are good tidings on the horizon and opportunities further ahead. Know the likelihood that your “surf epiphany” could well be of a “supernatural” or a most “divine nature.” Surfing is good direction. You are about to be acknowledged as “renaissance man,” and “environgentleman.” Give thanks and derive comfort from your “spirit guides and helpers.” Trust in your “juju.” Know that truth and soul shape your aesthetic from within. End the search. You are the surfer, and that in itself is perfect. And within that, the possibilities are endless. Surf life, live well.

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