noserider * VIII


Waterdance by James Parkhurst

The noserider is “Cat on a Hot Foam Board.” Riding waves of change she stays in harmony with life. Lightfooted and with balance afoot, she has a “nose for it.” With toes on the nose, she hangs ten and strikes the pose. She is surfing icon and conscience in one. Her majesty is of the royal family. Like Hawaiian Ali’i, she follows the high line, and the high road. Always in trim, she knows when to toe the line, and rides in accord with the available face. He is flowmaster and Zen rider. He knows how long he can hold his edge, and has a “sixth sense” for when to release. He knows where to draw the line. His deep knee bend is of flexible ego and adaptable, as he loops his bottom turn. She is “efficacious” and at equipoise as she fades into her turn, for projection. He is patient as he waits to walkover. She keeps an even keel as she sets up for the noseride to come. Balanced and controlled, while in the “swirling vortex,” he walks the nose. She knows that by stalling, it enables her to get the most from the wave. He takes head dip and shakes the water from his hair, as reward for holding the line. As her judgment is based on intuition, she knows how and when to end her ride, and not without conviction and grace. He is “the Untouchable,” and she, “barefoot feeler,” alone with her thoughts out on the nose.

details by the Boda Surf Family * illustration Marco (Lomal)

We are in perfect balance as we harmonize with the wave. Surfing brings balance and harmony together in synchronicity. “Timing is everything.” Knowing when to move and when to be patient is a valuable skill. Alert to danger, we react. Moving with the changes in our lives, we respond. All is well when balanced. With an innate, almost cosmic sense of balance, the noserider adapts. The noserider is always ready for change. As crossover artist “she takes a thick, spooned-out nose with beveled edge, or concave fore with rockered aft, and stays in sync with the wave.” With more float she catches more waves, is more fluid and has more fun. When she’s just cruising, she’s a stylemaster smoothie, in good form, drawing the fine aesthetic line. At rest she is a well defined, motionless silhouette. Her pause however puts her at the greatest point of vulnerability. In the state of greatest balance we are susceptible to imbalance. To sustain balance is not without adjustment. We pay attention to flow. Any movement or interference disrupts our flow and results in a loss of balance. We move from order to disorder, from harmony to chaos. The noserider “imitates life and the wave, remaining impartial and nonjudgmental, rather taking pleasure in the necessity of a nifty execution.” We know we will be rewarded if fair and we follow the “natural order” of things. We are willing to succumb to her.

We don’t always have to be “on the nose.” If we’re hooked and we can’t pull back, we will pay the price. By turning from too far forward we will catch the nose and dig a rail. “The music stops and the dance ends.” Even though for most the midpoint is not ideal, a return to center is required. Can you recover? You’re always pushing it. You can’t resist taking it to the brink. You’re afraid you’re too self-centered. Your social circle is just a sideshow. You never find time for others. Should I stay or should I go? Am I holding back? You’re afraid to walkover to the nose. You’re too practical, too anchored. You’re moored. You’re bored. Have you allowed for disharmony? When out of balance things must be righted. Do you need to undergo restoration within? You’re liable for the consequences of injustice. Don’t impose your size or your length. And don’t make a shortboard out of a longboard. The noserider is nostalgic, a holdover of antiquity. His surfing is compromised and lacks promise. He surfs by the book and follows convention. As traditionalist he has been tamed. He suffers dissonance due to being behind the times. The noserider fears she is not up to date. Uncomfortable with the unorthodox balance out upon the nose, she is not willing to go to and fro. Until her ardor intercedes, she will never get there.

Life is a give and take. We reverse direction, going back and forth, and find our balance in life. Bring balance into your daily life. Bring balance into society. Balance is a dance. By dancing in harmony with life, we blend in. We cross over back and forth to tap into the intuitive. “Creativity comes from a state of balance.” Follow your nose. Live life to the fullest. Flow with the changes in your life. Be in flux. “The only constant is change.” Make adjustments. Pay attention to your feet. Where are you going? The noserider can sense when to step back. “Sometimes you have to pass backwards before you can score the goal.” You will reach your goal. “Life is not an absolute.” It is not unchanging. “Rhythm is the key to everything.” The noserider is in the swing of things. She is a real swinger. She shares her waves. “Minor magistrate, and unofficial presiding official,” the noserider is the local beach ombudswoman. She knows the delicate balance it takes to restore order. Remain upright. Be just. Resolve to take self responsibility. “Effort and rebalancing restores equilibrium.” In truth, “your success depends on grace and balance.”

el Ciancio Rosado by the Boda Surf Family * illustrations Marco (Lomal)

ardhavrishikaasana by the Boda Surf Family * Illustration Marco (Lomal)

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