beach boy * XI

Our waterguide is strong like the base of a wave, but light as a feathering lip. He is aquatic familiar for visitors, steeped in experience and tradition. He pays tribute to the likes of Rell Sun, Rabbit Kekai, Duke Kahanamoku, Tom Blake and Greg “da Bull” Noll. Indigenous to the mid-Pacific, he is of sunburnt aboriginal style, and often owner of two Hawaiian style, “luau feet.” As the olo was for the Ali’i, he makes sure he has a long enough board, but is not to be overgunned. Triple stringer in tow, his Big Mountain is Big Makaha. He is steeled while taking a deep drop, and anchored in the tube. As surfcat, he is agile and lithe, but powerful and explosive as well. His is a majestic ride in all her glory. He fosters a belief in our Mother Ocean, our sport, our tribe, and in ourself.

His self confidence is derived from a commonwealth of culture. From losmen to the beach boy, his relationship with the ocean on a daily basis has value. The beach is his power spot, with wind, water, sand and sun, serving as daily signposts, which frame his initiation into manhood, as he learns to know and trust of himself. He knows that power comes from within. His inner strength is not obvious as an external display, but it affords him a security. He is gracious and strong in defeat. He doesn’t have to prove anything to anyone. He has proven to himself that he has a handle on the situation. As overseer he is realistic and rational, and of a slow metabolism. As peacemaker he restores order from disorder and keeps the peace. He is peaceable and docile. He’s just a natural.

Illustration James Finch

There is a soft side to go with the tensile strength. His is a serenity and strength combined. Comforting and protective, others lean on him. He is accommodating. He offers shelter and provides safe harbor. There is a goodness and openness about him. The beach boy believes in life. His heart is full and warm. He is strong and tender, loving and big fun. He’s “fat and happy.” He ain’t heavy, he’s your brother. The whole ohana is his surfing family. Everyone surfs with the beach boy. And why not, he is lovable and affable with a gentle disposition. The gentle giant is desirable. At beachside bonfire with ukulele and song, he is local figurehead under a palm frond hat, and leader of the beach set, a throwback to Tubesteak and a cast of zany characters. By romancing his sexual fire and strong libido she may well bring her mythical beach fantasy to life.

Myth or martyr, the beach boy is still tourist icon and envy in one. But all is not well as the gentle taming of the unimaginative moke has left him idealistic and lethargic. There are no more tiki huts. As corpulent old surf chief he has become overindulgent and gone to excess. He is inelastic and inflexible, even obstinate and of stubborn folly. His beach hogans have been converted to stands. As “el hefe,” he is tactless and takes control. Dominating and greedy he rules the roost, and can become showy and fiery, even ostentatious. If he decides to play the local heavy, his brute strength can be intimidating. If push came to shove, you wouldn’t dare challenge him. He is power under control and marked by few words. His tempered expression undermines his meditated movements. With emotions in check, he is the strong and silent type. He can be dangerous and intense, and may abuse his strength. And if his crew fears there has been a lack of respect, together they are not to be underestimated. Assertive and territorial, the black shorts become sneering and sardonic locals and will dig in against the seasonal invaders.

Illustration James Finch

His demeanor is not without merit. Forged by an appreciation for the process of life and its challenge, he has found that strength begets strength, and affords him an authenticity. His is an inner strength to match the outer. He is grounded and has built a foundation for sovereignty. He is sovereign unto himself. He lives life around and in accordance with the patterns of the ocean. Have respect for the ocean, have respect for yourself. Govern your physiological function. Eat raw foods, exercise vigorously, keep supple, and go into the wild surf, at full strength. Silence your fears. Paddle out. Adversity and trouble is a test of will. Be true to your inner wisdom, not to what you “oughtta” do. Faith ensures progress. Hold your line, keep your edge in. Be patient and stick with it. Access your amakua for strength. Use your positive ego, not vanity, to overcome the odds against you. Address counterproductive fears. The negative ions, like the waves, are powerful yet healing. Look the part, feel the part. Stand true.

Stand up to others. When you turn and run you lose confidence in yourself. You feel defeated. Do you question your abilities? You are strong enough to be nonjudgmental. Accept yourself for what you are. Be accepting of others for what they are. Personality defines self expression. Uncensored behavior is vital to dignity. Stand fast with firm resolve. A belief and trust in magnanimity will leave you eager to face questions and cope with change. If you resist change, you will struggle against the flow of life itself. Tame your drive. Get beyond your appearance and lust. It takes courage to be very still. “Precise movement from stillness resolves conviction.” Follow tradition: blow conch shell, carry torch. Stand up for others. Bravery, peace and justice come via inner strength. Don’t underestimate your sensitivity. Gain strength by sharing of yourself.

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